One of the parts to the fuel booster system is some N52 neodium magnets. By placing the magnets on your fuel line you can increase your fuel mileage. By adding magnets and a fuel booster and can get even better fuel mileage. What it all comes down to is getting more out of the fuel you buy while also cleaning the exhaust gases up some for the environment.




I seen a video of a guy today using his exhaust to help split steam into HHO to use as a fuel booster on his car.

Research Info:

I got my tools out for testing. I put them away before I went to Turkey. I have some new alternator stators I recently wound up too. I just put it all together and I'll post some results next week.

Stan has a European patent that talks about each part in the video below. The only thing I haven't made is a PLL, but it is in the works as I type this.

Booster Info:

I'm selling fuel boosters now. One of the keys to having a good WaterforFuel booster is a large alternator. You can't support a good fuel boosting system with a small ampere rated alternator. I'm learning that quickly. I recently installed my own system but I am using a smaller alternator like the WWW.BiosWaterCar.Com guys. It is rated for 70 ampere. The smallest alternator I recommend for the WaterforFuel System is a 150 ampere alternator using the smallest WaterforFuel Booster.

If you use a big alternator (like a 300 amp) then the power usage is less and thus the power needed to make it is less.

The math is like this. You have a 30 amp load from your fuel booster.

5 horse power to a 70 amp alternator (2.5 horse power for 30 amps)
OR
5 horse power for 300 amp alternator ( 0.5 horse power for 30 amps)

You simply use less horse power to make the same amount of electrical power which undoubtedly raises the fuel mileage. The size of the alternator makes all the difference in the world.

We recently finished a 97' Chevy Tahoe (5.7L Vortec) with a Medium WaterforFuel kit and we will soon post the results.

New Demo Videos:






Plasma Spark info:

The designed of the plasma spark located on the DVD are still working well! I'm chosen to lower the capacitor size to stop from burning up the diodes. So simply by lowering the Uf value to 20uF instead of 40uf has stopped my diode melting issue!!! Awesome! The system is totally stable, low amp usage, and the spark plugs don't get eaten up near as fast. And the water still explodes!

New Research Info:

Got some new pictures of the Stan Meyer stuff. And from a few of these pictures I can clearly see what to do. I know there is a lot of hype about the special resistive wire used by Stan, but I'm going to use copper and then hammer out the wire details later...well I have some of Stan's original wire and I know the details, but I'm just saying later for the whole resistive wire stuff.

So lets discuss the pictures. Clearly it says to bifilar wire the first and last coil of the stator of the alternator in the first photo. And then the second and third photo clearly shows how to wire the bifilar chokes in the alternator. I'm not sure if these photos have been doctored before or after Stan Meyer, but it is very obvious what I'm going to do next isn't it? Below is a short video of a new bifilar wound alternator stator, circuit board, and electronics. I am waiting on some diodes...story of my life man.







(UPDATE) I got my new diodes and I installed the system on the bench top tester today and it is working well. tomorrow I'll install the electronics and do some testing.




I broke my phone a few days ago and I need for everyone to send me a text msg with your number and name... you reading this Destino? I am supposed to go to Ashland, OR this week and do a fuel booster test run on the Tahoe. But I can't call Destino to get directions to his lab because I don't know his number. Email me Destino.

Lord...God Almighty!!!!  The diode joke is getting old.

If your tombstone reads "Man-size Diode: fast switching but not high amp", you might be me!