Adapt, Adjust, and Overcome.
I still haven't been able to figure out the problem with the ripple in my electrical system that is effecting the electronics. I can see and feel it not controlling the relay properly buy having surges or ripples in the voltage supply.
1. I disconnected the alternator to see if that was causing a ripple.
2. I added a second battery and kept the circuits separate.
3. I replaced my spark plugs with ones that have resistors in them.
4. I added rectifier diodes in the circuits to stop any AC in the line.
Nothing worked, in fact I got the middle finger for trying. So the best thing I can figure is that the distributor is within 2 feet of the electronics and maybe moving it away will stop the ripple. I'm stumped. It doesn't do this on the Trooper and it is within 1 foot of the distributor.
New Video Here.
I'll win this battle, it's just time consuming when all I have are 5 tests left.
There is an LRC Q meter on EBay for 200$ that will calculate everything out for me in the LRC circuit. EVERYTHING! I have been drooling over it for a few days now. Its logical to get it since doing the math only seems to work on paper.
Happy New Year yall!!!
1. I disconnected the alternator to see if that was causing a ripple.
2. I added a second battery and kept the circuits separate.
3. I replaced my spark plugs with ones that have resistors in them.
4. I added rectifier diodes in the circuits to stop any AC in the line.
Nothing worked, in fact I got the middle finger for trying. So the best thing I can figure is that the distributor is within 2 feet of the electronics and maybe moving it away will stop the ripple. I'm stumped. It doesn't do this on the Trooper and it is within 1 foot of the distributor.
New Video Here.
I'll win this battle, it's just time consuming when all I have are 5 tests left.
There is an LRC Q meter on EBay for 200$ that will calculate everything out for me in the LRC circuit. EVERYTHING! I have been drooling over it for a few days now. Its logical to get it since doing the math only seems to work on paper.
Happy New Year yall!!!
Love what you are doing. Hang in there and keep the faith. Have you considered possibly shielding the electronics. May be easier than moving the whole set far enough away.
Kevin wrote " I have considered that. I think the emp is disrupting the 555 chip in the electronics and I guess there are chips in the other water misting electronics that are venerable in there too. I used to do TEMPEST as a hacker and being that close to the emp of the distributor and ignition coil isn't good even with shielding. That may last longer without all that static too, so relocation is a positive thing I think."
Reply to this
There is(or supposed to be)a dampening capacitor right off or attached to the Distributor,that is supposed to steady the current from the distributor when it pulses from each pole inside the distributor when the rotor circles..Check that and REPLACE..THAT could be your problem..It may be bad..Hope thats it because its a cheap fix..I have had them go bad or become weak from storage..
Kevin wrote " ...already replaced that Dad. I done that 6 months ago. I bought the last one Dodge made and found 2 more at the junk yard. Cost me 22$ from Dodge and free from the junk yard."
Reply to this
Check your ignition coil or add a condenser on to it like they used inside a points distributor. Some older chryslers products had these on their coil because of static on the radio. I don't remember what side they connected to,but I believe it was on the negative side of the coil. May help??
Kevin wrote " yea, I have a new balist resistor, voltage regulator, spark controler, condensors (two of them), new coil, new points and rotor, new cap, and the supression capacitor didn't work. I moved the electronics away from the dash yesterday and they worked perfect. Tomorrow I'm mounting them in the center console and this problem will be solved for good. Thanks though!"
Reply to this