Stupid brain, DO WORK!
The Bad:
I've been busting my ass to get these electronic updates to work right. There is something blocking the pulse going to the alternator. I've sent them via over-night mail to the engineer that is helping me at ST. He said he will fix it and send it back with the schematic to fix all the others. It should be quick, easy, and almost painless except for the waiting.
I feel bad for not having the new electronic update finished by now. I've been working on it since Saturday and I expected to have my 3 orders finished, tested, and shipped out two days ago. But the upgrade for the electronics should be finished and mailed out to yall by this time next week. Thanks for being patient.
I was given some info on that guy in Columbus, OH that who made Meyer parts (WWW.UVONIX.COM), but the phone calls and emails never panned out. So that guy (George Anderson) is officially out of my reach to contact via phone or email.
The Good:
I got the new air cleaner cover that will hold the 2 air ionizers to ionize all the intake air (picture below with 1 ionizer). I got the float and the high voltage pressure connections installed on the tank. I bought a high pressure fuel/water pump to fill the electrolysis tank while under pressure. I should be getting my new spacers this week also. That should put the big cell and tank at 100% complete after assembly.
I'm having some vinyl lettering put on the Dodge that reads "WWW.WaterforFuel.Com". Thinking it will look something like below.
I put up another electronics kit on EBay for your bidding pleasure. The last one sold for 150$ (what a deal!). These are the new electronics kits with the update. I know you're saying "but you haven't finished them yet", and this is where I say "they worked great at 12 volts, it is just a matter of applying the upgrade (voltage shifter) so they can operate at up to 600 Volts". I want to give my customers the best product available. And you already know the rest of the story if you read from top to bottom. The item number is 300225852997 or you can click this LINK
The Ugly:
Gasoline is still going up in price, pollution is steadily increasing, and there are still more car commercials on TV than there are politicians fixing our fuel problems. I can't decide whether to vote in a Black color, a White hair, or Woman's pants suit to do nothing for the next 4 years. Don't get me started...all three of the fuckers have sat in on secret Senate meetings with either Stan Meyer, Denny Klien, or Roy McAllister (or countless others) and know there is a simple and easy way to make cheap, abundant, renewable fuel using vehicles and/or conversions. And they know this can happen tomorrow and not 10 years down the fucking road.... oooo it gets my blood pressure up so high I could spit nails.
Dear Kevin:
I recently came across this website,
WWW.KeeleyNet . They have plans for
converting a car to run on water.They
strongly recommend treating the engine
and exhaust system ASAP after conversion
This involves:
1)Replacing the valves with stainless
steel ones
2)Ceramic treatment of the pistons and
cylinders.
3)Ceramic treatment of the exhaust system or replace it with stainless steel.
They said this is necessary to prevent
rust.
My question is:when you get the dodge up
and running,are you going to have to treat the engine and exhaust system to
prevent rust?
Rich C.
Kevin wrote " hell no, the heat will fuck up the alloy and turn it blue, this will make it rust and become brittle. Fuck it, they don't do nothing to propane powered vehicles, why should I do it to the Dodge? The carbon isn't good for the engine, if someone tells you it lubricates they are full of shit. The oil in the oil pan lubricates and the PCV valve allows those fumes to enter the intake. I think people talk shit just to hear themselves talk some times. Tell them to show you some proof that using the Meyer method will require that stuff, tell them to shut the fuck up and show you proof if they keep talking too."
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This is to Richard Clayton:
Richard, Your mixing metaphors a bit. Running a car on "water mist" as an additive is NOT what Kevin is doing. Neither is he adding some HHO to gasoline. The objective for adding water mist is to convert the mist to superheated steam which aids in the EXPANSION of gases which will, if done right, add horse power. Also water vapor injection is for Turbo or Supercharging where you want to prevent predetonation and run at normal Fuel to air mixtures as you have higher pressure at spark detonation. H2O is very, very erosive. Steam turbines can only tolerate superheated steam. If the steam has any water vapor in it will erode the turbine blades. Thus, this is what happens to your valves, cylinder walls and rings. You will erode your parts and loose your compression. Adding water vapor can be done with Stanley Meyers invention as well. The difference is whether there is water vapor in the BANG or not. Water vapor will erode where there is a gap and a tiny leak starts. ie. your valves and rings. HHO gas alone will have no H2O in combustion. In this case the water vapor will only exist in the exhaust cycle and the heat of combustion will keep the parts dry at low exhaust pressures. If you choose that path you should invest in the ceramic parts for your engine. It should be easier to do since your burning hydrogen GAS state, not a vapor mixture of atomized liquids.!. Kevin is not attempting to add water mist as an additive he's burning Hydrogen + Oxygen. NO WATER VAPOR in the intake... Another related note.. Other folks read the "BS" sites which seem to suggest they are running cars on water. Nope, they are adding some HHO gas with the high cost of turning up the alternator to produce 15 to 20 AMPS of power.. This is like putting on an extra sweater so you can sweat more to get cooler, but not exactly. Yeah, you might affect your emissions and burn cleaner... but your not going to get great gas mileage because it cost HP (Gas Mileage) to generate 20 AMPS of current to bubble a tiny among of HHO. You have to be careful what you read and also understand the exaggeration to $ell you a kit. The hype is getting huge for the HHO afterburner market. There are going to be more and more jokers trying to get in on the gig. Kevin is pioneering this where others get discouraged and fail. Do yourself a big favor and buy Kevin's DVD.
Good luck,
Kyle
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I am interested in the spacers you have ordered. Please, send me an email about where to buy and cost.
Kevin wrote " just keep watching, I'm sure there will be a link pop up if they work because I'm not going to sell shit that doesn't work."
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This is a way out question...what would it take for you to hook up my car to this system once you have everything complete and tested. How much would it cost for the complete system including your time to install?
Kevin wrote " I'm not installing shit dude. You can pump gasoline, you can install the system... and it was supposed to be 1,500$ in the mid 90's so I'd expect it to be less than 1,000$ for the full kit and for it to be installed."
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INFORMATIVE
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I am following you intently. I want to convert my Ford truck to 100% HHO. I don't think you will need to coat anything, but the valves mite not be a bad idea hydrogen may be too hot for normal valves. Try sodium filled, if they burn, they used to be available for Chrysler products a long time ago.( FOR BIG ENGINES )How are you going to feed the gas to the engine ( through the gas line and injectors)? How are you going to modulate the fuel? If you use the valve body how will you control mixture? How will you control the gases for octane( very important) DETONATION IS NO JOKE. What is a ( VOLTAGE Intensifying IMPEDANCE MATCHING NETWORK?) Do you mean a radio hams( MATCH BOX ?)That doesn't increase voltage." I don't think ".This sounds very exiting. The very best of everything including PEACE LUCK MONEY LOVE ANYTHING ELSE YOU Won't.
Dr. Mike
Kevin wrote " too many questions dude, you obvously need to read Stan's book, patents, and memos. I'm not going to retype all the info that is in his stuff so buy a CD or DVD and consume his folder. You don't need different valves because it isn't going to run hot (in the book). Everything works with a propane setup whether it is carburated or injected. That is exactly what a match box does, raises the voltage in the system and reduces the energy needed to maintain that high voltage."
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I was looking over your plans for turing water into fuel, but I just don't get it. I have seen other plans on the internet that looks more simplistic. In fact they mention how easy it is to convert to a hho unit, and how easy it is to turn it back to burn gasoline engine. I was very interested into converting to a hho unit, but after looking at your website, it doesn't seem possible.
Please comment and let me know the true facts.
Thanks
John
Kevin wrote " When you get off your ass and start doing it you'll find out real quick what is bullshit and what isn't. So have fun with those easy plans, I'm sure they are so easy everyone in the neighborhood has a water powered car. I work off patents, not crayon drawings. So when you see it looks really easy (but no one has replicated it) then you will raise the Bullshit flag yourself. You want something simple? Go buy some gasoline at the gas station."
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Does the dvd include information on how to make your latest electronics? Can a person duplicate your system from your DVD?
Kevin wrote " yup, I'm sure they could it isn't brain surgery."
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Do you know about the PWMPOWER.COM people they seem to have some practical experience building power supples that mite be useful in the future
Kevin wrote " sure is a lot of shit for not reading the Stan Meyer patents."
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Just a thought, you could have a simple hand die made to punch out the insulators, out of what ever plastic. A tool and die maker could make it for you. Probably inexpensive. A hand punch. Regards MIKE
Kevin wrote " that is what I'm doing bro."
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Kevin, Your looking at all the right stuff. You're right, the simple plans might help, but they'll never get a car to run clean on only H2O, that's why they are simple. Have you managed to get any coated stainless steel 430 for the VIC choke coils. I've got 430, and found a company in the states that will coat if, but it's a pricey job. I have built my own enamel oven, and have HyMol in the fridge ready to try. If it doesn't coat well, or the oven goes bang, I may have to get this professionally coated. Wondered if you've been down that road already? Cheers, SteveW
Kevin wrote " I haven't yet. But I did learn that the cheapass little electrical space heaters have SS wire for the coils. It has some sort of resistance built in. I don't know what it is, but it works great under water for electrical connections in the tank. Email me and let me know how that works out for your dude."
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How do you think the system will work in cold climates. Possible to add anti freeze to the water?
Kevin wrote " I got cold climate auto-start on my 4x4 and it warms the whole vehicle up, water tank and all....you need a key for your shit? That sucks. Do not add anything to your water or you'll fuck up the resonance efficiency bro. Try about 20 peltiers or a NOS bottle heater....or maybe a garage."
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Have why thought of using an ordinary car ignition COIL cur cit . possibly out put of points, PULSED DC into a ignition coil 40,000 volts , to a diode to the bi-choke to the cell using pure water. hi voltage goes to cell breaks down dialectic (Catastrophic) converts to high current 9 makes copious amounts of HHO. pure water replaces HHO and reaction begins again. Frequency of HV pulse should control ( production ) throttle ie. speed . I BELIEVE THIS WILL WORK QUITE WELL> you could have a cell and supply for each fuel injector ,timed to pulse to engine firing order thus timed port HHO injection .GOOD LUCK, MIKE P>S> LET ME KNOW WHEN ITS RUNNING.
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