Espeakenzi da plan engwish.
All together from the top old chums!
1. Make your pulse generator and driver combo. Be sure it has a range from 1 Hertz to 50 Kilohertz so you get the most bang for your buck. Or buy a kit from me.
2. Rewire your alternator either like Stan Meyer or Stephen Meyer. I haven't tried Stephen Meyer's alternator setup so knock yourself out with it. But Stan Meyer's rewired alternator works great. It has 3 AC wires and 3 Neutral wires. Neither alternator setups use rewound cores. Or buy a kit from me.
3. Make your tube cell. Stan used tubes about 2 feet long, I'm making mine 1 foot long. Stan used either 9 or 12 and I'm going to use either 21 or 24 tube cells. Make your cells in multiples of 3. Since the power source (the alternator) has 3 AC and 3 Neutrals you can supply 3 cells with power. If you use 2 alternators you can use multiples of 6, and if you use 10 alternators you can use multiples of 30. The point is if you're going to have a cell make it a tube cell with either 1,3,6,9,12,15,18,21,24,27,or 30 (you get the idea I hope).
4. Test your cell before you submerge it. No shorts. Then submerge the cell in water and get the capacitance and resistance from the cell using your LCR meter (EBay special). Make your impedance matching circuit and your tube switching circuit. The impedance matching circuit will match the capacitance and resistance of the tube cell (I'm working on a general circuit for everyone). Throw some inductors on both the positive and neutral sides to finish. The tube switching circuit alternates the polarity of the tubes back and fourth from neutral to positive (you'll need another signal generator and driver for this). But the polarity switching circuit is supposed to increase the production as well. This is shown in the back of Stan Meyer's book (and patents) and on Stephen Meyer's patent.
5. Turn your cell on and check for any shorts. Then pressurize your tank with air (NOT HHO) to 125 psi and check for gas leaks in your gas lines and gas tank seal using soapy water. Check everything that has pressure, and every joint. HHO is very small and will escape anywhere. If your tank won't hold that kind of pressure then make one that will. Don't try to pressurize PVC beyond 40 PSI, strictly use a steel or stainless steel tank you guys.
6. Make your air ionizer for your intake air (or injector mix). Or get a EBay special Ionic Breeze.
7. Make sure you have flash back arrestors in line at the tank and the intake. Start using the gas to drive your vehicle.
I'm at the #3. I'm finishing up my new tube cell. I also have a concentric tube cell and a plate cell. I'm going to work on impedance matching circuits for also THIS WEEK.
The only part of the math you should realize, if you can understand that, is the best cell (Zo) will have an impedance matching circuit that will match the cell (High Q). These circuits will have lights to drain the electrons from the circuit. The best use may be the LEDS in the air ionizer as well as the ionizer its self (to drain electrons). Ionizing the air intake is going to help increase gas mileage as well as possibly creating ozone for the intake. Speaking from a scientific point of view, Ionized Ozone may dramatically increase the HHO energy yield in the cylinder.
This wikipedia entry made me smile. It defines how the voltage can go to infinity in the LRC circuit but the transmitter is the only thing consuming power.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_theorem
Hope this helps.
Kevin,
Just so we're clear, Your last blog is suggesting that the goal is for a fuel additive only.
By your experience, please give your opinion. This will not give you the means to control your engine speed. You'll need to rely on your gasoline carburetor.
Do you pipe the HHO into the vacuum port at high vacuum, intake manifold or do you port the HHO into the top of the carb? The reason I ask is at idle you have the highest vacuum, therefore you're drawing gas off the fuel cell the most there. This should increase your idle and also give you the most trouble with timing. If you port the gas into your carb you should have a more linear relationship to HHO usage with engine speed.
You are also saying that the tank should be built for high pressure. Is this with the HHO ported to the Intake manifold? I'm guessing this is the case... The pressurized tank would occur where your giving off gas at full power and at highway speeds where the manifold vacuum is lower. This is my understanding so I'm asking if you should port the HHO into the top of the curb or into the air filter. Also this may be better for those situations where you have a backfire!
Also, wouldn't you want to incorporate a pressure regulation with a voltage control on the cell exciter circuit to regulate the pressure when it's producing too much HHO? or not enough?
Another question regarding the alternator... When spinning the alternator at low speeds (engine idle) does the gas production decrease? The voltage output will be the same just the frequency will be reduced. What is the relationship at higher engine speeds?
Kevin wrote " I'm only talking about 100% water (fuck gasoline). The voltage will increase with the speed of the alternator. You can pulse a higher voltage into the alternator (using less amps) also. My electronics will allow anyone to pulse 5-100 volts at 1-80 amps in to the alternator. The propane intake system on the Dodge runs on 3 PSI or less, the pressure is to increase speed and contain starup fuel. Where did you get the idea I was mixing this with gasoline dude? No Never Not Going To Happen."
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Whhoooooa, Steady... It was not clear about the intention nor is there any clarity on carburetor or speed control with HHO.. It's a chance to clear the cobwebs which I'm guessing I'm not alone. Could be... I hope not. I was looking and found a couple of web sites which market LP gas carbs. Can we do a chapter on carbs and hardware? Any takers?
Kevin wrote " maybe when I get to that point, other wise call impco or buy a nice used one (like I did) off EBay."
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Are you using the 125psi just for testing for leaks or will that be close to running pressure as well?
I am wondering why you want to use such high pressure. For fuel delivery into the intake we only need about 5psi. If we run the pressure up high like that we will need to regulate it back down. I don’t see the purpose of this since we are making the fuel on demand.
Thanks for laying out the step by step for us.
Tom
Kevin wrote " 125 psi is only air and is only used to test for leaks. I have a blow-by valve that is adjustable from 50psi-150psi and it is currently set to open if the pressure goes over 50 psi. The gas pressure is actually a very small amount of gas. It will be used to start the vehicle and for full throttle needs. A regulator shouldn't be an issue if its what is required to run the vehicle on water gas dude. I don't see the point in regulating the gas production via the foot throttle, I'd rather let the system run full out and then be stopped with a pressure switch then control the speed by the pressure I release into the system. I have a custom manifold on the Dodge cell tank. I want to attach some quick-disconnects to it so I can show the Dodge idling on HHO while I have a bar-b-q grill and even run a welding torch or small IC generator going. The tank was built to provide power to the Dodge and to a couple of items for shits-n-giggles in the race."
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Kevin,
Have you tested any blowback prevention devices with Hydrogen? There are some warnings about the speed of burn and the devices designed for LP gas in the pdf files on the Stan Myer folder on the DVD.
Kevin wrote " Any oxygen or acetilyne flashback will work as long as you're not dinking around with only a few psi. You just need to use a bubbler if you're doing that little of production. By mixing the exhaust gas back with the flame (or back into the engine) you can slow the burn rate, but this is after any flashback arrestor."
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seen this one?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bs-Uk511S_I
enjoy good buddy!
Kevin wrote "yup, its cool! But too bad he is distroying his spark plug and using KOH as an additive to his water. Its a great start...but that's as far as it goes. This guy needs to pulse a mist of water into the spark, but most important of all he has to pass the water through a HV magnetic field so the mist will be mostly HHO. That is what I'm working on at least... But that is a good video. Thanks old friend!"
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