The definition is : Occurring without gain or loss of heat. When a gas is compressed under adiabatic conditions, its pressure increases and its temperature rises without the gain or loss of any heat. Conversely, when a gas expands under adiabatic conditions, its pressure and temperature both decrease without the gain or loss of heat. The adiabatic cooling of air as it rises in the atmosphere is the main cause of cloud formation.

The Stan Meyer method of electrolysis is an adiabatic electrical function just as JLNaudin says. I sure hope his V3 Meyer setup is with one of my rewired and rewound alternators.

Speaking off, you know the 12 volt electronics work well and so does the rewired and rewound alternator. Here is a short clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbmsNEKLj4s

These 600 volt diodes aren't going to work. Too much voltage from the alternator (which is a good thing). I've ordered some 1200 volt 12 amp diodes from Mouser.Com (stth1212) which will be tested first. But this is going to change also. I'm currently trying to get some 3-phase bridge rectifiers from SemiKron. I want the 1600volt/25amp rectifiers (40$). If they work well then it will be an awesomely stout setup. But you'll have to wait like I am, and let me tell you it sucks having money wrapped up in shit you can't use.

I now know why Stan's step-up voltage wave only has 7 peaks to it, because he could only fit 7 loops (with 50 to 60 turns) inside the alternator. So everyone will get an alternator with 7 loops and 60 turns because that is all I can fit in there too. When I get the 3-phase bridge the alternator will have a positive, a negative, and a neutral wire for you to run into your LRC network.

I'm going to rewind the alternator stators myself it looks like. I can't find anyone locally to do it for me, and I can't afford to hire someone a distance away specifically to do it. So I will do it, fuck it. I'm almost finished making the new alternator DIY and everyone can do it themselves because I'm going to put a video on the DVD and on YouTube. Need your own stator rewired? Send it to me if it is a Delco Remy. Costs are on the Products page.

The 12 volt electronics work right NOW, but the 110 volt electronics don't. I'm currently waiting on some electronics from someone who makes them already. If they work then I will sub out the work and start selling them. If you CAN wait the electronics will get finished and I will send you a working copy I promise (swear to God almighty). So If anyone would like the 12 volt version then I have some that work. If you bought some 110volt electronics already I'd be happy to make you an alternator for an additional 50$, or I can send you the 12 volt version and a 20$ bill, or a full refund. But I need to get all of yall squared away and happy. I apologize deeply for the delays and I'm sorry for selling you something I didn't have working yet to research with myself. Please let me know what I can do to make you happy.

Don't buy anything from WWW.ElectronicKits.Com because their customer service sucks and that means you can do better somewhere else for the same price. But if you like people who say they know it all, but can't prove it and won't offer any help, then be my guest...I say fuck'em tho.

I done a few tests today. The best thing that happened was I burnt up the 600 volt diodes I put in the alternator.

I was watching the volt meter pulse as the 12 volt version of the electronics were pulsing and was really happy it was putting out 130 volts idling. So I flipped the volt meter to 500VDC and reved the engine up to see how much voltage the rewound alternator would put out. I guess about 2000 rpm it popped the 600 volt diodes and started making hard pulsing noises...

So I took it off and replaced the whole board in the alternator. I also cut out the back of the alternator a little for some more room.

Tomorrow I'll retest without reving up the motor. When the 12 volt version works then I'll test the 110 volt version. Everyone say a little prayer for me and my shit to work.

I also have combined the neutrals and the AC outputs in to 2 terminals (1 positive and 1 neutral). Pictures below.

God Bless George Carlin. I'm happy George Carlin and Sam Kinison can get together and joke about how fucked up life was.

I was in a local news paper. You can read the article here

www.jeffersonstatenews.com

Here is a link to JLN Labs (Jean-Louis Naudin) who has successfully replicated the WFC from Stan Meyer and posted on June 12th. JNL Labs will soon post the efficiency numbers when he is finished (so don't fucking bother him).

http://jnaudin.free.fr/wfc/index.htm
 
I'm doing the same thing except instead of using a solid state transformer I am using the rewired alternator. Same thing almost. JNL was very interested in getting the info to rewire and rewind an alternator just like I give out with every kit (and soon to put on every CD and DVD).

The info on Stan Meyer's lawsuit has been added to the FACTS link on the home site, as well as the JNL Labs link. It is important people know that civil law cannot dictate physics, patents, or stupidity.

http://www.waterfuelcell.org/moreinfo.html

I got the new electronics put together today and I'll start testing tomorrow. I still have to make a few additions but the pictures are below.

When success hits you, it might kill you if you're not ready.

 
Well the bad news first.

Bad News:

After all that winding and wiring, after the babying and talking sweet...that fucking new alternator wouldn't fit on the Dodge. It sit crooked and the shittin belt kept coming off. I blew a mental gasket and screamed at the Dodge for 2 minutes, kicked all the tires, and threatened the give it to the junk yard just to see it be crushed.... I'm still hot over it. That mother fucker... so I rushed all last night and today to get the alternator that come off the Dodge rewound.

The washers I ordered, to be made into spacers, weren't the right size. So instead of ordering more from that place I'm going to get some from another place down the road tomorrow.

The new electronics I got were put together Saturday night and look great, but I need to hack it so I can change the frequency easily.

The worse news of all is I'm not finished  with them yet. I could kick my ass... slow fucker.

Good News:

I got the rewired alternator out of the Dodge and rewound it. I screwed it up a few times. I had to solder some wires back together I broke numerous times.  All the alternators I have worked with have 12 coils so naturally I wound up 12 coils for the Dodge alternator. As I was almost through with the first phase I noticed I was going to be 4 coils short. So the Dodge alternator has 16 coils wound 60 times with 26AWG wire for each phase, 3 phases total.



After I got the SOB wound up I had to run my wires out of it. The wires were so big and hard to control I was worried they would break off and force me to reopen the alternator right after I got it back in the Dodge. It looked really whimpy too. So I took a hint from Stan. Stan used that circuit board inside his rewired alternator remember? It is below.

 

Well I done the same thing but without the pretty curves and foil.

 


Stan used 3 diodes, but had room for 6. The 3 diode system was Stan's, but the 6 diode system was patented by his brother. I only put 3 diodes on my board, but left enough room to up upgrade. The new alternator has 3 positive posts and 1 neutral post on the back of the circuit board.

 

 


I have the stator wires hanging out the back untill I find out which ones are AC and which ones are neutrals tomorrow.

That engineer should be back from vacation. Tomorrow I'm going to shoot him a schematic of the new electronics and ask him to place the pot and the tell me what capacitor to swap out and where to put the LED.

Wow, what a wild few days.

First of all an engineer called me from ST and told me some things to try. As I was burning DVDs to mail out my laptop took a dump on its self. I was able to recover, but I had to buy a new laptop today

I think I had an epiphany. I am starting to understand "Repelling Lines of Force" which is described in a video on the DVD called How They Fly. And this is also the way Meyers alternator worked.

I'm going to  try and explain this as simple as possible.

Let's look at the alternator. The pulsing rotor acts like a balloon being blown up and then deflated in a rhythm inside the stator. This rhythm "repels the lines of force" back and forth through the stator core. This is also known as cutting the magnetic flux lines. This pulse effect causes the stator of the alternator to be inducted once as it is pulsed ON and once as it is pulsed OFF (like an inductor), this is what causes the step voltage effect (the Tidal Wave form). Ever heard of Stan using a toroidal core? Well the alternator stator is a toroidal core. Isn't that interesting? That struck me a few days ago. Then today I counted the step voltage wave increments, and there are 11 of them (the 12th is tied to the 1st). That means if I put more than 12 loops on the stator the step voltage will go higher than 11 steps.

Meyer's picture only shows 7 voltage step pulses, but mine shows 11 to the top.


So by placing a double (triple and even quadrupole) layer of 3 phase coils on the stator the step voltage wave will double (triple or quadruple).  The double (triple and quadruple) haven't been tested so I could be wrong. But this is how the water is split... each step pulls the electrons off the molecule more as it increases.

So I'm winding up a 6 phase stator. Think of it like a 3 phase alternator, but the second 3 phases are on the opposite side as the first 3 phases. I don't even think Stan did this. This idea is from all the Tesla in me.

So in retrospect this can be done to any alternator, which mimics a toroidal core. And in that respect means the rotor doesn't have to rotate, which brings us to the solid state version (which I'm not doing yet). So I need more time to think about this.

I seen the machinist today and he showed me the punch he was making for the spacers. It isn't finished and Ill have to use a hole punch to nip the grooves out, but it already works great. Below are some pics. Don't get all hyper over the spacers and try and get me to sell you some. I'll do what I can, but the final part is the injector and it doesn't use a spacer, a tube, or a cell.

Now that is some food for thought...

My God Man what have you done? Do it some more!

Well I'm sad to say the electronics still haven't been fixed. I bought those SCRs and they didn't work. I called ST today and found out the engineer is taking a 3 week vacation (its been 2 weeks already). I begged my rep to have the schematics put in front of some other engineers. He immediately apologized for the engineer taking so long to fix them. So Dan, my account rep, has gotten the schematics in front of some other engineers at ST to help me out. Dan is really motivated to help me so I thank God for his help.

Thanks for being patient you guys.

I finished winding up a new test alternator today. It is drying from being sprayed with lacquer. Below is a picture of it. I'll let it dry all night and install it in the Dodge tomorrow.  If Stan was idling his VW on 10 watts (5 volts @ 2 amps) then the 12 volt electronics should produce a lot as well. I just don't have any way to reduce the voltage from 12 volts to 5 volts going into the alternator. The 14AWG  wire (5 turns on 12 loops) has been cut out and it has been rewound using 23AWG wire (30 turns on 12 loops). It has taken me at least 5 hours and 3 days to wind it. Waiting for the glue, paint, and finding the parts is what took so long.

Only 1 phase shown in this picture, 2 other phases (3 total) must be wound.







Below is the Old Stator compared to the New Rewound High Voltage Stator.

I got the SCRs on the way. The new circuit looks great. The engineer is still on vacation. Here is Stan's schematic using the SCR. It is depicted as 28 on this drawing below.



And this is a close up of close to the exact same circuit I'm using (no opto coupler in my stuff).

I'm almost finished rewinding this new style alternator and it is a bitch, but the second one will be a lot easier.

The machinist said good things will happen with spacers on Friday.

I got the red LED flash controllers. I have 240 red LEDs that will flash at about 40 hertz. I can alternate them or flash them both at the same time.

Things I need.

I need someone who can rewind alternator stators with 22AWG wire. Or I need a stator already wound with 22AWG wire. Got any? Know someone?

If this is the missing part then I will be needing a few... I've called DelcoRemey and ACDelco and they are too good to do work for me. I've talked to about 20 people with no success so I'm burnt out and pissed off. If you know someone who can do this, please call them and ask them first, I'm tired of explaining it over and over again. I am making a DIY to rewind your alternator stator if no one can do this for me cheap.

Well where do I start?

I'm having to rewind my own alternator core because the guys I had doing it hadn't touched it after 2 weeks of having it. It is a major electrical project, but I'm 60% finished with it already. It basically entails me rewinding the alternator stator with a smaller magnetic wire (from 14 AWG to 22AWG). This will make more volts and less amps. I'm also going to epoxy some neodium magnets in the rotor gap also so that the voltage will never reach 0 volts even though it is turned off.

I have changed the electronic update done by the engineer. Since he is on vacation I took the last week to review the design . I was also reviewing Stan's patents and noticed he wasn't using a mosfet, but he was using an SCR. I have been able to remove 9 parts the engineer has recommended and replaced them with 1 SCR. That's a big accomplishment replacing 9 parts with 1 part. I have read about the part often and it finally struck me like a big red truck....duh, here is my sign.

So I'd like to run this by the engineer and get his input and maybe get some part suggestions. Since I bought $200 worth of upgrade parts I got to see if I can't return them for $200 worth of SCRs. I replaced 4 capacitors, 1 mosfet, 1 resistor, 1 IC, 1 IC socket, and 1 PCB all with 1 SCR and 1 free wheeling rectifier. I'm pretty stoked about the SCR. It is the quality, the convenience, and the fact that you can now use the electronics to either pulse the alternator OR pulse your cell directly that makes me happy. It is going to be 4 times the tough cookie it was.

You can't just throw a pulse into your cell and make it resonate (if you can then prove me wrong please). You can though make your water cell the capacitor in a circuit of two inductors and a resistor. This will make the water cell charge to a higher voltage before being able to cross over the resistor into ground.

I'm so happy I've Reread the directions/patents and am now going to use an SCR. I'll order the parts on Monday and get busy because I have orders to fill.

These electronics are giving me a headache. They still are not working for me (but they work for the engineer). I soldered up 4 upgrades and they all do the same thing (nothing, everything blinks and works and nothing smokes but still no ON/OFF when it is all connected up). So I've emailed the engineer a panic letter and schematic to see what I am doing wrong. I have 15 electronics sitting here in front of me waiting for the upgrade and 5 need to ship out immediatly. I'm trying not to stress out, but I am.

I have the intake ionizers on the new air filter housing and they are ready for the road. Below is a picture of them in the day time and below that is a video of them at night (so you can see the UV ionizer light).



Video of the inoizers at night (CLICK HERE).

The cell tank has been painted white on the inside and is ready for some flashing red LEDs.

The spacers are about ready also. The company who made them wanted $1,250.00 for an order count of 500 ($2.50 each). I can't do that. So I've had my dad send me our old family pecan cracker (nut press). It is an ajustable steel press basically. I've talked to the machinest and he said he can make a die that I can put in the nut cracker so I can press out the spacer from a regular nylon washer. This way I can make mine and some for yall too.

Gas is over 4$ a gallon here. I got the truck vynils a few days ago and they look great. I fucked up 2 of them because the wind decided to blow real hard and got dirt on the sticky side. Chris was nice enough to cut me a few more for the Dodge. But all in all I think it is ready for the media circus. I drove it around today for a few minutes since it never gets any road time. Lots of new people asking about boosters (I DON'T DO BOOSTERS) and when I'm going to be finsihed. Subscribe to the blog because when I finish I'll post it here.

Left to do:
Get the fucking electronics to pulse the rewied alterantor right
Setup pulsing red LEDs in cell tank
make spacers and setup big 40 tube Dodge cell
get the new wound stator for the rewired alternator and test
get resonance
drive away